Tamiya, Revell, Italeri, Airfix (Humbrol), Vallejo, MIG Jimenez,
and other model companies offer paints, though they can be somewhat
limited to start with.
no way to get around the fact that paint can be expensive. But
it's usually needed to cover a model. Better paints tend to cost
more, especially when the colors choices and shades are wider
and you have more selection.
40+ years modeleing, I've used many different kinds of paints.
I've experimented with so many kinds and brands. But I can't choose
one brand that will always be better than another in every case.
They have different characteristics. Though I tend to use more
acylics today than I did in the past.
for bottled paints, I use paints made by Vallejo, or a similar
type squeeze eye dropper paint (MIG Jimenez, Warhammer paints,
etc). I like these paints better for several reasons. You only
have to use a few drops at a time, so a single bottle goes a long
are clean, no paint on the cap, dripping down the bottle, etc.
The caps don't seize to the glass bottle (the bottles are plastic).
And I've found it rare that they dry out, (so I'm saving money
cost a little more, and I like the combination sets, but they
are very much worth it. They don't usually leave brush strokes,
dry somewhat quickly, and for me, just seem to do a good job.
are videos of modelers painting entire models with these types
of paints, without any brushstrokes. They are amazing. (just to
give you an idea, this 15 inch figure was painted with a brush as far as the skin - no brushstrokes).
companies make similar paints to Vallejo, such as PS3, or gaming
want to say that it's very important you use good paint brushes.
No matter what paint you use out of a bottle, a bad (or warn out
brush) is the worst, and will make your hard work look bad.
Paints wash up with water for easy cleanup. They also
dry quicker. They tend to dry with a flat or matte finish.
You only need water to thin them out.
Paints require paint thinner, or a stronger paint cleaner
(such as mineral spirits or Testors
Brush Cleaner) to clean the brushes. Enamels also take
longer to dry and can be tacky till they cure.
I've lined up different brands and bottles to compare.
what's the big deal about eye-dropper paints?
"eyedropper" paints tend to be acrylic. But one
good thing about them is from what I've seen, you tend to
use a lot less paint, and a bottle goes a long way.
only have to squirt out a very small amount, depending on
what detail you're painting. Often a drop will do. Then
you put the cap back on and that's it.
many years, decades even, I used enamel paints in a jar
like almost every other older modeler. That's the way things
were. You screw the top off, dip the brush in. The next
thing is over time, you get paint on the edges of the jar,
the lid bonds itself to the jar so it's nearly impossible
to get open, or the paint dries out. Ruining an entire bottle
eyedropper paints tend to stay clean and trouble free. Some
of the companies use metal pellets inside to mix the paint
when you shake it.
can use a pallet of some kind, but I like to use cheap styrafoam
picnic plates (paper plates will bleed with paint on them
and can be messy). This way, once there's no more room on
the plate, I simply throw it away. I don't have to clean
anything. I also have a lot of space to mix colors on.
have also found that it's easier to control the amount of
paint on the end of the brush. If there's too much, I wipe
the brush on the plate until I have the amount I want. That's
more difficult to do wiping a brush on the side of a bottle.
I can also see better what's going on with the paint and
brush this way.
I still use a few bottles of paint in a jar. Those will
never go away. But a majority of paints I use now are from
an eyedropper bottles.