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When
it comes to models, I've been using what I call "Hardware"
paint for decades. I still use model paints or course, but
if a color is not available that way, or I see a unique
color I realy like, I will use the hardware paint out of
a can.
Generally
most are enamels, but some are automotive lacquer paints
(from online or from a parts store). I always use primer
with an auto lacquer because those paints, depending on
the brand, can be very harsh on a plastic kit. Enough to
where it will MELT the PLASTIC into a lumpy blob! Or at
least ETCH the plastic and give it a bad texture.
It's
true that Tamiya and Testors both make lacquers, but those
are a synthetic type, and ok for models. Automotive paints
are different.
Using
primer I've never had an issue with automotive paint on
a plastic model (or resin, vinyl, etc.).
Many
companies don't tell you what kind of paint it is on the
label. My guess is that they are some kind of enamel / acrylic
hybrid. They dry faster than an enamel, almost as quickly
as an acrylic.
The
important thing is TO ALWAYS TEST THE PAINT FIRST.
I can't stress this enough. Mixing primers, paint, and clear
coats is like making a mixed drink. You don't know exactly
what you're going to get and how it's effects will be until
after you drank a few.
The
easiest way to test paints, primer, and clears is to shoot
them on cheap,
white plastic spoons.
If
funky things happen to the spoon, you'll be glad you didnt
try that paint, primer or clear coat on a $ 50.00 model.
You
can use hardware paint if you know it's limitations. The
cans are twice the size of a model paint can and many times
cost about the same price. So there are advantages to using
them.
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